outdoor bamboo decking



You will need to carry out some checks on the surrounding area, the screed, and the wood being laid before you are in a position to lay the actual decking. The installation period is just the last step of a coherent laying process which is geared towards the final quality of the result. The basic concept is that wood placed outside remains subject to extreme stress caused by rigid and high temperatures, the dryness of the air or suffocating moisture, snow, rain or wind; all woods therefore, although treated, are able to withstand years of atmospheric agents without suffering too much of an impact; This means that the choice and quality of the core chosen must be made in a workmanlike manner, and that any subsequent maintenance work on the decking can be carried out carefully.


– the laying plane where the substrate is positioned must be levelled, consistent and structurally solid; an anti-moisture sheath is applied where humidity levels are high, as this restricts the impacts of premature aging on the outside of the parquet; or you can prepare a gravel based substrate or one made from other permeable material so that the water is able to drain away;

– before laying, you should make sure that the outer bamboo planks remain at the assembly site for a few days, so that they can adapt to the humidity and surroundings of the location; it is better if the decking is able to adapt to small movements in the surrounding area when it is still loose on pallets rather than when it has been grounded;

– check the material to make sure it is in tact and free from any defects prior to installing the slats you have ordered. It is not possible to receive any complaints regarding products which have already been laid as an item;

– bamboo decking is a natural product and any minor differences in colour between one plank and another are normal;

– the materials should not be laid quickly, rather it should be kept sheltered horizontally from the weather in a covered and ventilated place which is not exposed directly to the sun.

– the humidity for a parquet for outdoor use will be between 13 and 18% at the time it is laid.



In addition to the quality of the supply, the quality of laying decking is vital for the entire structure to form over time and to ensure that no problems arise in the years to come.

Bamboo is laid just like any other hardwood decking. Just like all woods, even bamboo decking can expand or contract depending on the ambient humidity and the weather. It is recommended that you read the following assembly instructions so that this process can be following without any barriers.


– the nailing strips which form the decking substructure can be made from wood, bamboo or aluminium; nevertheless, please use durable and resistant materials; specifically speaking you should use dense pieces of wood to ensure that the screws are attached to the nailing strip correctly; soft resinous woods should be avoided because they do not allow the screw to withstand the tension of the board being laid; we recommend that you use Canadian cedar, which is imperishable and cannot be deformed;

– the substructure must have a gradient of 1 % to allow any rainwater to drain; for this purpose, the joists should be laid parallel to the drain, so that the water can fall away and does not become stagnant;

– the sub-structure must be anchored to the laying plane;

– the height of the nailing strips must be at least 30-40 mm from the ground to allow for maximum air circulation;

– the nailing strip section should be at least 5 cm wide, and 4 cm high;

– to calculate how many ml of nailing strips are needed, you will need to check that the nailing strips are spaced 35 cm apart, meaning you would have to order 3.6 times the surface to cover it; an example: 360 ml of nailing strips must be ordered for 100 m2 to be covered.


– a distance of 4-5 mm between one plank and another (long side);
– a distance of 4-6 mm between the decking and any solid surrounding structure;
– a distance of 2-3 mm between one plank and the other (short side);
– with regard to the substructure, a distance of 35-40 mm between one nailing strip and another.

These gaps make it possible to circulate air in between the bamboo strips and ensure they can expand/contract naturally.


– the lower surface of the bamboo decking plank must be raised from the ground by at least 30-40 mm;

– there must be sufficient air circulation underneath the boards so that the material does not warp;

– when in particularly humid surroundings or where there is water immediately below the planks, the air circulation must be supervised carefully and should never cut out, as this may increase the gap in between the slats and the laying plane by up to 8-9 cm;

– if it is possible to remain sufficiently far enough away from the ground, then apply a steam barrier so that the boards cannot absorb any excess moisture from the floor.


When cutting slats, we recommend you use a circular saw with tungsten carbide teeth (widia); it is also recommended that the piece being cut be treated with impregnating oil.



– the boards are positioned perpendicular to the substructure;

– the first and final row of planks in the area which need covering must be fixed directly to the nailing strip with the screw in view by using a pre-hole with a drill; this makes the entire structure solid;

– insert the clip into the appropriate side slot for the first row and fasten it to the nailing strip using high quality self-drilling stainless steel screws;

– insert the second board into the clip and repeat the process for the third table which requires fastening at the recommended distance of 4-5 mm, with the clip already provided;

– make sure that the plane heads are always fixed to nailing strips’; the head of the axle and the most sensitive parts should be moved successively and anchored securely to the nailing strip which prevents them from being misaligned to the adjacent head; the clips will be space at around 6-7 cm from the edge of the head.


– the result is superior from an aesthetic point of view as there are no screws which can seen;

– the elements can be laid more quickly.


– walking can generate some noise;

– the boards may move slightly more due to the variation in weather conditions;

– dismantling them so they can be substituted or inspected is a much more laborious process.



– the boards are positioned perpendicular to the substructure;

– only use high-quality stainless steel self-drilling screws to prevent adverse weather conditions from scratching the screws and the decking machine;

– you should pre-drill the decking board prior to inserting the screw into the wood by using a wooden tip and screw head housing which remains alongside the rest of the dashboard; pre-perforation is necessary because of the hardness of the wood, which itself may crack if drilled directly using the screw;

– secure the final one for each nailing strip on which the dashboard is resting by using two screws spaced apart at a distance of 2 cm from the axle edge;

– the head of the dashboard must always rest on a full nailing strip and must be secured to it; the screws will remain spaced at around 6-7 cm away from the edge of the head.


– it is easy to remove the dashboards, both when they need replacing and to inspect the substrate elements;

– all of the decking remains firmer, and is less subject to warping and moving around;

– there is less noise when you walk on it.


– aesthetically speaking, the presence of screws on planks is a little more invasive;

– the slats are assembled more slowly.