LAYING BAMBOO DECKING OUTDOORS
CHECKS TO BE CARRIED OUT PRIOR TO LAYING DECKING
You will need to carry out some checks on the surrounding area, the screed, and the wood being laid before you are in a position to lay the actual decking. The installation period is just the last step of a coherent laying process which is geared towards the final quality of the result. The basic concept is that wood placed outside remains subject to extreme stress caused by rigid and high temperatures, the dryness of the air or suffocating moisture, snow, rain or wind; not all woods therefore, although treated, are able to withstand years of atmospheric agents without suffering too much of an impact. This means that the choice and quality of the essence chosen must be made in a workmanlike manner, and that any subsequent maintenance work on the decking can be carried out carefully.
GENERAL ADVICE
– the laying plane where the substrate is positioned must be levelled, consistent and structurally solid; an anti-moisture sheath is applied where humidity levels are high, as this restricts the impacts of premature aging on the outside of the decking; or you can prepare a gravel based substrate or one made from other permeable material so that the water is able to drain away;
– before laying, you should make sure that the outer bamboo planks remain at the assembly site for a few days, so that they can adapt to the humidity and surroundings of the location; it is better if the decking is able to adapt to small movements in the surrounding area when it is still loose on pallets rather than when it has been grounded;
– check the material to make sure it is intact and free from any defects prior to installing the planks you have ordered. It is not possible to receive any complaints regarding products which have already been laid as an item;
– bamboo decking is a natural product and any minor differences in colour between one plank and another are normal;
– the material, if it is not installed quickly, must be stored horizontally, protected from bad weather, in a covered and ventilated place, not exposed directly to the sun;
– the humidity for a parquet for outdoor use will be between 13 and 18% at the time it is laid.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR LAYING BAMBOO DECKING ON NAILING STRIPS
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE FLOOR LAYERER
In addition to the quality of the supply, the quality of laying decking is vital for the entire structure to hold up over time and to ensure that no problems arise in the years to come.
Bamboo is laid just like any other hardwood decking. Just like all woods, even bamboo decking can expand or contract depending on the ambient humidity and the weather. It is recommended that you read the following assembly instructions so that this process can be following without any barriers.
SUBSTRUCTURE
– the nailing joists which form the decking substructure can be made from wood, bamboo or aluminum; nevertheless, please use durable and resistant materials; specifically speaking you should use dense pieces of wood to ensure that the screws are attached to the nailing joists correctly; soft resinous woods should be avoided because they do not allow the screw to withstand the tension of the board being laid; we suggest you use Canadian cedar, which is imperishable and cannot be deformed;
– the substructure must have a gradient of 1 % to allow any rainwater to drain; for this purpose, the joists should be laid parallel to the drain, so that the water can fall away and does not become stagnant;
– the sub-structure, depending on the case, can be anchored to the installation surface or simply supported;
– the height of the nailing joist must be at least 20-30 mm from the ground to allow for maximum air circulation;
– the nailing joist section should be at least 5 cm wide, and 2 cm high;
– to calculate how many ml of nailing joists are needed, you will need to check that the nailing joists are spaced 35 cm apart, meaning you would have to order 3,2 times the surface to cover it; an example: 320 ml of nailing joists must be ordered for 100 m2 to be covered.
SPACING BETWEEN THE VARIOUS ELEMENTS
– a distance of 3-4 mm between one plank and another (long side);
– a distance of 4-6 mm between the decking and any solid surrounding structure;
– a distance of 2-3 mm between one plank and the other (short side);
– with regard to the substructure, a distance of 35-40 mm between one nailing joist and another.
These gaps make it possible to circulate air in between the bamboo planks and ensure they can expand/contract naturally.
SUBSTRUCTURE VENTILATION
– the lower surface of the bamboo decking plank must be raised from the ground by at least 20-30 mm;
– there must be sufficient air circulation underneath the boards so that the material does not warp;
– in particularly humid environments or with water immediately under the planks, air circulation must be particularly careful and must never be lacking, possibly increasing the distance between the slats and the laying surface up to 8-9 cm;
– if it is possible to remain sufficiently far enough away from the ground, then apply a steam barrier so that the boards cannot absorb any excess moisture from the floor.
CUTTING BOARDS
When cutting slats, we recommend you use a circular saw with tungsten carbide teeth (widia); it is also recommended that the piece being cut be treated with impregnating oil.
INSTALLATION WITH RETRACTABLE CLIPS
assembly
– the boards are positioned perpendicular to the substructure;
– the first and final row of planks in the area which need covering must be fixed directly to the nailing joist with the screw in view by using a pre-hole with a drill; this makes the entire structure solid;
– insert the clip into the appropriate side slot for the first row and fasten it to the nailing joist using high quality self-drilling stainless steel screws;
– insert the second board into the clip and repeat the process for the third table which requires fastening at the recommended distance of 4-5 mm, with the clip already provided;
– make sure that the plane heads are always fixed to the nailing joists; the head of the axis is the most sensitive part in subsequent movements and anchoring it well to the slat prevents it from remaining misaligned with respect to the adjacent head; the clips will be spaced from the edge of the head by approximatel 6-7 cm.
advantages
– the result is superior from an aesthetic point of view as there are no screws which can be seen;
– the elements can be laid more quickly.
disadvantages
– walking can generate some noise;
– the boards may move slightly more due to the variation in weather conditions;
– dismantling them so they can be substituted or inspected is a much more laborious process.
INSTALLATION ON PLANKS USING SCREWS
assembly
– the boards are positioned perpendicular to the substructure;
– only use high-quality stainless steel self-drilling screws to prevent adverse weather conditions from scratching the screws and staining the deck;
– you should pre-drill the decking board prior to inserting the screw into the wood by using a wooden tip and screw head housing which remains alongside the rest of the dashboard; pre-perforation is necessary because of the hardness of the wood, which itself may crack if drilled directly using the screw;
– secure the final one for each nailing joist on which the dashboard is resting by using two screws spaced apart at a distance of 2 cm from the axle edge;
– the head of the dashboard must always rest on a full nailing strip and must be secured to it; the screws will remain spaced at around 6-7 cm away from the edge of the head.
advantages
– it is easy to remove the dashboards, both when they need replacing and to inspect the substrate elements;
– all of the decking remains firmer, and is less subject to warping and moving around;
– there is less noise when you walk on it.
disadvantages
– aesthetically speaking, the presence of screws on planks is a little more invasive;
– the slats are assembled more slowly.